To achieve an intense wild mushroom flavour and a thick, rich texture, make the soup using mushrooms that are a few days old and have started to darken a bit. I usually buy up any older (and cheaper) baskets when they're available. The best variety of msuhrooms I have used is Paris Browns, which are fairly readily available, but ordinary chestnut mushrooms are also ideal.
Dried Highland ceps are quite different from French and Italian ones; they are less dry with a spongier texture. The depth of flavour from the mushrooms is so intense that no stock is needed, making this an excellent vegetarian soup.

Serves 6

Ingredients

50g (2 oz) butter
200g (8 oz) onion, thinly sliced
1 clove of garlic, crushed
600g (1 lb 5 oz) Paris Browns (or chestnut mushrooms) roughly sliced
3 teaspoons dried ceps, preferably Highland ceps
30 ml (1 fl oz) light soy sauce
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Chopped fresh chives, flatleaf parsley, basil or tarragon, to garnish
Sliced, sauteed mushrooms, to serve (optional)

Melt the butter in a large saucepan and gently soften the onions and garlic for 10 minutes, until soft. Add the mushrooms and the dried ceps and stir to coat.

Now add the soy sauce, the salt and a generous amount of pepper and, finally, 1 litre (1 ¾ pints) of boiling water.

Bring back to the boil, reduce the heat and then simmer for 40 minutes until the mushrooms are tender. Liquidize the soup and check the seasoning.

If serving immediately, garnish with a squiggle of cream and some greenery (chives, flatleaf parsley, basil or tarragon) or drop on a few sliced, sauteed mushrooms. If making ahead, cool completely and store covered in the fridge for up to 2 days, or freeze for up to 3 months.

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