Back in the old days, big hotels made rich chicken stock using whole chickens - this would produce a deep, rich stock and the added bonus of cooked chicken ready for room-service sandwiches. A fantastic if somewhat extravagant way to make stock. This method uses carcasses and produces an excellent result for all purposes.

Makes 1.3 litres (2 ¼ pints)

Ingredients

3 chicken carcasses, skin and fat removed
1 large carrot, quartered
1 leek, cut into quarters
2 celery sticks, halved lengthwise
1 onion with skin left on, quartered
1 small head of garlic, halved across its equator
6 peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 thyme sprig
3 teaspoons parsley or tarragon stalks

Place the carcasses in a pot large enough for the bones to fill it only halfway. Just cover them with about 2.5 litres (4½ pints) of cold water (too much water will dilute the flavour of the stock) and bring to the boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat immediately to a simmer and then, using a large spoon or ladle, skim off the fat and any scum from the surface. Add the rest of the ingredients, all of which should lie on top of the carcasses. Adjust the heat to a very slow simmer and skim once more.

The simmering stock will now rise and fall through the vegetables, which act as a filter, absorbing all of the gunk from the liquid and leaving it crystal-clear. Leave it to simmer like this for 2-3 hours, tasting regularly. You should eventually notice the point at which the flavour stops improving. This means it's ready.

Remove the pan from the heat and empty the stock into a colander set over a bowl. Now pass the stock through a fine sieve into a tall container or 2.5 litre (4 ½ pint) jug. Cover it and allow it to cool by placing it in a sink of cold water.

When it's cool, place it in the fridge overnight. Skim off any fat that settles on top and spoon out the now-jellied stock into tubs. Freeze until ready to use.

© Nick Nairn

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